The Multinational City, Perpignan

Third of three features - ‘Short Breaks on a Shoestring’.

The capital of Roussillon is a melting-pot of a city; the most multinational city in the Southwest of France.

A substantial part of the population comes from the Spanish Catalans who fled from the Spanish Civil War. They live alongside French colonists from Maghreb and more recent arrivals from Algeria and Morocco. There is also a Romany contingent.

They all have their own cultural traditions, architecture and ways of preparing food, adding spice to the many-layered nature of Perpignan.

We drove there over the fast motorway from Narbonne, crossing from The Aude to the Pyrénées-Orientales, skirting the coastal resorts of Saint-Cyprien and Collioure.

Along the way to Perpignan lies the game reserve of Mas Larrieu, which Steve enjoyed; along with a meal at La Reserve: Restaurant, in Argeles sur Mer (set menu from 12 euros).

Later, we went to Brouilla, near Perpignan, where we stayed at L’Ancienne Gare.

This is no ordinary old railway station and  paintings provide summery splashes of colour throughout.

My ensuite room here featured elegant white linen covers and curtains and a calm white bathroom with unusual green ceramic fittings; it had a view over the railway line.

On arrival, L’Ancienne Gare’s owner, Joaquina produced remedial thyme tea: a whimsy of strawberries on green and a silver pot.

Late next morning, after tea and small mouthfuls of sweet breakfast cake, I toured the transformed train station.

The whole building is full of interesting antiques and quirky reminders of its past life. And trains still pass by - but in the daytime not at night!

It is a bonus to enjoy a gallery of wonderful figurative and landscape paintings - many by Joaquina - and, in addition, beautifully-made sculptures by local artists.

Rooms at this charming B&B cost from 67 euros a night.

Late in the morning, I left by taxi (39 euros) to catch the others in Collioure, ten miles away.

Picturesque Collioure is well known for its Fauve artists of the early 20^th century: Derain, Matisse and Braque, among them.

At Casa Leon in Collioure, Steve had an entree of Prosciutto ham and feta cheese followed by flash-fried steak and baked potatoes, mushroom and tomato with fresh chives.

Shades of extreme satisfaction crossed his face. We weaker creatures ate plain boiled rice and shared a life-enhancing crème Brûlée (set menu from 15 euros).

Then we toured the royal castle; a ‘must’ for boys of all ages, it comprises four castles on the one site, dating back to prehistoric times.

It has been occupied by Romans, Visgoths, the Counts of Roussillon and the Catalan-Aragonaise dynasty.

Since 1659, it has been in French hands and the castle remains as it was modified at that point.

The castle has rambling, underground passages linking to the sea, dungeons, a prison, and barrack buildings from the 17^th century.

There are some interesting displays related to medieval pursuits and I have a notion that the French Legionnaires train there in winter (this might be imaginary).

Getting There

Fly from London Stansted to Carcassonne in three hours with Ryanair or travel by Eurostar to Lille from St Pancras and onto Montpellier by TGV (five hours).

We flew back from Perpignan with Ryanair.

Langudeoc-Roussillon Holidays: Sun France

L’Ancienne Gare

Chateau Royal de Collioure, B.P. 82-66190 Collioure, T: +33-4-6882-0643

Casa Léon, 2 Rue Rière, 66190 Collioure, T: +33-4-6882-1074

La Reserve, Rond Point De L’arrivee, 66700 Argeles-Sur-Mer, T: +33-4-6881-0868