Canal du Midi

Second of three features - ‘Short Breaks on a Shoestring’

We left Carcassonne for Narbonne by car, gliding alongside the tree-lined Canal and pausing at an historical library, a floating grocery shop and to see some house boats.

Boating is a relatively inexpensive way of travelling around The Aude; travellers floating gently along this canal - it links the Atlantic and the Mediterranean - can take bicycles for exercise along the tow path or to sample French cuisine in villages along the way.

At Narbonne, our overnight host ordered his estate’s wine in advance at Brasserie L’Estagnol, opposite Les Halles - the gourmet markets. Roasted red peppers with fresh anchovies were superb and the rare pigeon with ratatouille, cherries and sauté potatoes was faultless.

Next morning we were offered fresh fruit, milk cheese, ham, boiled eggs, pots of freshly made yoghurt, cereals and bowls (literally) of strong coffee - standard breakfast throughout The Aude.

Later, we met with Christophe Cabrier at the Narbonne Tourist Office, which sits above the Robine River. Of special note, the old bridge Pont des Marchants -Merchant’s Bridge - with houses all the way across.

We went with Christophe on a whirlwind tour of key heritage points, including the Archbishop’s Palace. The city hall’s huge tower counts 220 steps to the top. What a view!  The Cour de la Madeleine, in the Vieux Palais, is particularly fine.

I found Christophe’s knowledge of local and Occitan history fascinating and a bunch of young school children clearly felt the same; they jumped up and down with excitement to see him.

For lunch, we visited the Halles of Narbonnes. With 72 stall holders, this seductive market offers seasonal vegetables and fruit, bright seafood and fish, wicked-smelling cheeses, rich pies and pâté and many different kinds of saucisson.

We were invited to a lavish tasting of local products and regional wines, prior to ‘lunch proper’ at Chez Bebelle. This was run by a charismatic character, the double of celebrated French actor, Gerard Depardieu.

My robust beef tartare came with traditional extras, including chopped gherkins and raw egg. The chips had a ‘come again’ flavour that ‘Depardieu’ explained; ‘double-cooked in fat’, I think.

After lunch, we went to Narbonne Plage to cycle along the Antique Bay (from Peyriac to Bages) and the historical Narebonnaise path; a ride likely to take seasoned riders about two hours… after a heavy morning’s exercise on the tourist trail and the equivalent of two lunches.

When we left the beach track for the open road, I fell off my bike on a bridge (confused by the traffic), and damaged my knee. Terminating the expedition, we drove to our next destination.

That night, we ate late at a small restaurant once famous for its fish. Suffice to say, I developed a state of ‘intoxication alimentaire’ and our French guide was also affected.

There was time to reflect on the small print of insurance documents. Even with appropriate cover, you must pay in advance for medical care.

On the first night, we stayed at Domaine de Beaupré. Watch out for the sign on a bend of the main Route d’Armissan, 10 minutes from town.

There was a huge, welcoming fire burning downstairs. Upstairs, I had a pretty ensuite room and could have spent days in the communal area, sprawling with comfortable sofas, books and board games for children.

Our second night was at Camping La Nautique and we shared two chalets. The rooms are small but well-fitted and everything is spotless. On site, there is a bar-restaurant and shop and sporting facilities include an Olympic-sized swimming pool, tennis, football and boules; you can rent bicycles, canoes and windsurfing equipment.

Getting There

Fly from London Stansted to Carcassonne in three hours with Ryanair or travel by Eurostar to Lille from St Pancras and onto Montpellier by TGV (five hours). We flew back from Perpignan with Ryanair.

Useful Contacts

Sun-France

Domaine de Beaupré

From 55 euros for 2 people, including breakfast

Camping La Nautique

Mobile home from 38 euros (4 people) – minimum 2 nights stay